Sunday, June 23, 2019

A Taste of New England


















New England summers have always had a special place in my heart.  It is a magical land, a great destination regardless where you live.  Crab shacks dot the landscape across New England, Cape Cod and the islands.  Ahhh.... behold, the clam shack, purveyors of Cape Cod-style fast food beloved by tourists and locals alike. ... I can see it now, me at the window ordering one of my favorite summer treats, a impossibly fresh shrimp roll.......Back to reality.

Being landlocked in Middle Tennessee, hours from the shore, the closest place I could find fresh shrimp was Whole Foods.  This is my version, my “unofficial” shrimp rolls.  They will do in a pinch when my heart is yearning for Martha’s Vineyard. 


Shrimp Rolls

2 lbs. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup Duke’s mayonnaise. (My southern twist)
Zest of 1 lemon
Juice of ½ lemon
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced cucumber
1/4 cup diced chives
1/8 tsp Zatarains liquid crab and shrimp boil. (**this is the secret ingredient!)
1/4 tsp Old Bay Seasoning
1 tablespoon dried dill
Salt and pepper to taste
Pepperidge Farm top-sliced hot dog buns
Room temperature butter

(Buy Pepperidge Farm top-slit hot dog buns. One of the irresistible qualities of a shrimp roll is the distinctive buns with the cut bread sides.  But I’ve never found them in any grocery store around here. If you get the top-slit hot dog buns and pull them apart, it automatically creates those cut bread sides, which you butter and fry until golden brown. Trust me, it makes the sandwich.)

Heat a medium skillet over medium high heat. Add about a tablespoon of butter and, when melted, saute the shrimp until both sides just turn pink, about 4 minutes. Remove the shrimp to a bowl and refrigerate until chilled. Wipe out the skillet.

Cut the shrimp into bite-sized pieces and add the mayonnaise, lemon zest. Lemon juice, celery, cucumber, chives, liquid crab boil, old bay and dill. Mix thoroughly and add salt and pepper to taste.

Pull apart the hot dog buns to reveal the bread sides. Butter each side of each bun and saute in the pan over medium high heat until both sides are brown, about 2 minutes.

Fill the buns with the shrimp salad and serve.

Did you catch the scent of salt air and the sound of distant surf????




Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Cooking Up a Story

I love stories.  Without stories, life would be insignificant.  Storytelling is part of our humanity, after all, we are all part of the greatest story, His-story. 

Being of Scotch-Irish descent, my family on both sides were wonderful storytellers.  Especially on my father's side.  They were raucous raconteurs, most of the time, the storyteller was in their story.  Everyone in the family created stories orally, but also in visual art, music, poetry and writing.  Their stories helped form who I am, they taught me to recognize and appreciate the uniqueness in everyone.  They sparked emotions, created meanings and most of all, memories. I think that's why everyone loves stories. Everyone has a story to tell.

My Grandma Young told stories through her cooking.  Everything she made had a story, or became part of a story.  That is where I learned to associate stories with food.

Storytelling seems to be inherent in the south.  It permeates every experience.  When we found out we were moving to the south, I conjured up images of front porch rockers, sweet tea and stories.  When we arrived in the south from the desert southwest, I felt I was home.  The south is a place with soul, a place with stories.  It took me a while to understand that you can never really "Be southern," if you weren't born here. 

I was excited for our first potluck. I had never been to a southern BBQ before. It was a week after we moved here.  I couldn't wait to make my friend, Nancy Erickkson's homemade salsa (the nectar of the gods!) and guacamole.  To me, having grown up in the north, and spending a number of years in Arizona,  a BBQ is a chicken part on the grill brushed with Kraft Honey Barbecue sauce.  I thought chips, salsa and guacamole were perfectly acceptable. I didn't have a clue of the southern BBQ tradition, except what I had seen in Gone With the Wind when they had a BBQ at Twelve Oaks.  I realized pretty quickly that, "I wasn't in Kansas anymore."  I heard someone say about the guacamole,  "What's that green stuff?"  Someone whispered back, "I think the dips gone bad." 

I found out pretty quickly that here in Franklin, no one in the grocery store knew what cilantro or tomatillos were.  You couldn't find a wrap until you reached Atlanta.  I didn't have the luxury of small, family-owned Asian/Hispanic/Italian/Eastern European/MidEastern markets, those wonderful places that hold so many treasures, flavors and ingredients, a cook's delight.  (A lot has changed in 8 years, Nashville is quickly becoming a global melting pot on the level of the Columbian Exchange, with a fusion of ideas and choices.) But 8 years ago, I decided that "When in Rome do as the Romans do." This Southwestern Yankee girl was going to learn to cook southern.  I've been working for the past 8 years trying to perfect traditional southern dishes, but something was woefully wrong.  I couldn't put my finger on it.  I just couldn't seem to master the cuisine because it was an acquired taste.  I poured over southern Junior League cookbooks, church cookbooks, Southern Living recipes, and worked tirelessly trying to recreate recipes for foods that we've tried in traditional southern fare restaurants.  It wasn't happening. I wasn't having any fun. 

I finally realized that I had gotten bogged down in artificial notions of authenticity.  The recipes were not my traditions. They were not my story.  They were part of my story, but not the whole thing.  Just like in visual art, drama, film, music, dance, poetry, etc, food has narrative powers.  It's a non-verbal narrative through taste sensations.  Adding ingredients from different traditions makes it familiar and can tell the story of the place, or the person.  Once I realized this, the shackles were released!

Finally, I am free!  I have been reveling in the narrative powers of food, telling my story in recipes.  (New England/MidAtlantic/Midwest/Chicago/Southwest/American South/Scotch/Irish/German/English/French/Eastern European/China/Philippines/Spain.  Using my cook's brain, I can instinctively tell if something is going to taste good or not.  

From now on, I'm going to create recipes that reacquaint people with their traditions and expose them to new traditions.  After all, witness the influence that Catherine de Medici's had on France when she moved from Florence to France to marry Henry the II in 1533.  She brought her chef's with her.  It changed the culinary world forever!

This weekend, we hosted friends from Scottsdale I was able to try out my new cuisine on them.  (They lived!)  I did a fusion Southwestern/Southern BBQ.  This was the menu:

Brazilian cheese bread bites stuffed with pimento cheese with jalapenos, roasted red peppers and garlic




Pork shoulder brined in molasses, pickling salt, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, spices, kosher salt and injected with Dos Equis, prickly pear juice, apple juice, sugar, kosher salt and worcestershire sauce and rubbed with sugar and tons of spices, slow cooked for 9 hours.


Heirloom tomato salad with fresh peaches, goat cheese and pecans with basil, balsamic garlic vinaigrette
                                                 



Coleslaw with lime, cilantro, chipolte dressing
                                        



Macaroni and cheese with green chilies, roasted red pepper, Monterey Jack cheese and bacon



4-bean southwestern baked beans


Banana pudding/cream cheese/coconut creme trifle



Carrot cupcakes with caramel drizzle, topped with dried mango, papaya, pineapple, coconut, pecans
                                         


Strawberry infused lemonade with matcha and stevia greens


Food with stories. Food from the south where days are slow and meals are  made from scratch. Food that shapes our memories. That's what I want to make.



Monday, October 20, 2014

There's Tailgating, And Then There's Tailgating

 
                                                                                    




     This is tailgating in the north. This is the world I was born into. Think raw meat on a grill, a Corona with lime, a T-shirt and jeans, trunk open, the local radio station broadcasting the game. 

     In the north, what you see is what you get.  People pretty much say what they mean, do what they say and assume the shortest distance between two parts is a straight line.  Their mantra is, "Why do I insist on doing it the hard way when the easy way will do?"   

                                                                            And then.......






     This is tailgating in the south. I had no idea it existed! Think chandeliers, Greek columns and banquet-worthy spreads of food, blazers, bow ties, sun dresses, pearls, mile high heels, and live music. Who can resist a divine potluck, cocktail hour and a fashion show all rolled into one? 

The south, like anything worth knowing is complicated.  It's a land of stark contradiction. It's nothing if not a place of infinite mystery.         

    I'm definitely a northerner by birth, but I got to the south as fast as I could!          

Sunday, August 24, 2014

 This Sauce is Genius!


I began my love affair with ethnic cuisines in Chicago, in the neighborhoods, those places that reduced the awesome experience of urban life to human scale. "The city of big shoulders", native Chicago poet Carl Sandberg called his hometown.  Chicago is a town big enough for everyone, and is home to many of the nationalities of the world, which has led to a lot of diversity, both cultural and culinary.  Every type of food you can think of you'll find in Chicago's kitchens. Taylor street in Chicago is where I realized that the Italian food that has come to our general American culture is at once delectable and embarrassing.  The delectable part comes from first class Italian kitchens, in Little Italy like The Rosebud and the embarrassing part comes from the host of chain Italian-American restaurants (who I won't name) that serve things that most Italians have never seen like chicken parmesean, stuffed shells and deep fried ravioli, not to mention dipping bread in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. 

Little Italy in Chicago is bordered on the north by the Eisenhower Expressway, on the East by the Kennedy Expressway, on the South by Roosevelt Rd and on the West by Polk Street. The Rosebud on Taylor is a charming restaurant with old world Italian spirit. It's my all-time favorite restaurant in Chicago. 

I've been working for years trying to perfect their pasta sauce. I think I may have finally nailed it! Everyone should have a hearty pasta sauce like this in their repertoire.  I love to serve it to food-loving friends with an earthy red wine. While it is perfectly delicious with the traditional sprinkling of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, you might try topping it with a dollop of fresh ricotta and a grinding of fresh black pepper. Balance and harmony at it's best. 

The Rosebud's Pasta Sauce (Gwenn's version)

1/3 cup Olive Oil  (I love Colavita extra virgin)
7 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
10 cups cored and chopped very ripe fresh Roma tomatoes
1-28oz can whole plum tomatoes with juice (I love Contadina brand)
1/2 lb fresh mushrooms, chopped
1/4 cup fresg Italian flat leaf parsley (chopped)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 tsp dried margoram
1 tsp fresh rosemary
1 tbsp fresh basil  (chopped)
1 tbsp fresh oregano (chopped)
6 tbsp salted butter
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
1 jar roasted red peppers packed in olive oil (or can make your own fresh)
1/2 cup sliced black olives
1/2 cup sliced large green olives (stuffed with garlic)
6 mild Italian Sausages, cooked and sliced about 1/2" thick
1 small can tomato paste (I love Contadina brand)
1 tsp sugar
Salt and pepper to taste

Freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano Cheese ( I love Kirkland brand-it's made from sheep's milk) or a dollop of Ricotta and freshly ground black pepper


Soak porcini mushroom in 1 cup of hot water for 45 minutes, drain and chop
Heat an 8-10 qt heavy bottom pot
Add oil, garlic, mushrooms, and onion.  Saute until the onion is clear
Add remaining ingredients except butter, salt and pepper
Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for 4 hours stirring often.  Stir in butter, salt and pepper.
Serve over a bull bodied pasta like Rigatoni or Penne.
Serve with graded Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese or a dollop of Ricotta and freshly ground black pepper.

Mangia bene, vivi felice!

Sunday, March 16, 2014

"Laughter is brightest where food is best." - Irish Proverb


They say that there are two kinds of people in this world, "those who are Irish and those who want to be Irish."  Such is the wonderful arrogance of those of us whose ancestors hailed from the Emerald Isle.  And it must be true.  After all, there are some 40 million+ Americans who claim Irish ancestry, that's almost ten times the population of Ireland.  And on St. Patricks Day, everyone is Irish!

My Irish grandmother immigrated to this country when she was 14 years old.  She died at 104. She used to tell me that people outside of Ireland think Irish food consists of nothing more than potatoes and mutton. I remember her talking about how the food and cooking of Ireland is steeped in history and heritage. She told me how Irish food draws on the wealth of ingredients from the sea, the land, the moors and pastureland in Ireland. She always said, "we did have a Great Famine but at other times the Irish enjoyed many a good take away."

Home and family played an important part in my Irish grandmothers life. Irish food and cooking were at the center of it.  Her kitchen was the heart of her home.  Her Irish hospitality and love of celebrating were renowned. 

She always told me that "It takes a certain amount of gall to be a good cook, you have to be in charge."  The week of  St. Patrick's Day, she would make three of my favorite dishes. 
Irish Soda Bread
Potato Onion Soup
Irish Boiled Dinner
Irish Soda Bread




Soda Bread is an amazingly easy, versatile recipe which has stood the test of time as an Irish classic because of it's simplicity. It is a no-knead, no-fuss style of bread which is my kind of recipe! It get's its rise from a combination of creamy Irish buttermilk and bread soda.  It's delicious on its own or served with a warm bowl of Potato Onion Soup. 

6 cups all purpose flour                                               3 Tbsp cornstarch
2 tsp baking soda                                                        2 tsp sugar
2 tsp baking powder                                                   1 tsp salt
2 1/2 cups buttermilk

Preheat oven to 375
Add all dry ingredients in a large bowl and mix very well.  Pour all of the buttermilk into the bowl at once and stir, using a wooden spoon, just until a soft dough if formed.  Do not try to make it smooth.  Pour the contents of the bowl out onto the counter and knead for a minute or so until everything comes together.

Divide dough into two portions and shape each into a round loaf, pressing the top down a bit to just barely flatten it.  Place the loaves on a large ungreased baking sheet. Sprinkle some additional flour on the top of each loaf and, using a sharp paring knife, make the sign of the Cross in slashes on the top of each.

Allow the loaves to rest for 10 minutes and then bake on the middle rack of the oven for 40 minutes or until the loaves are golden brown and done to taste.  Cool on racks. 


Potato-Onion Soup


My grandmother told me that yes, it was true that the Irish lived on potatoes for a time.  She said the old country had never been wealthy in food, but the Irish have always been wealthy in humor and spirit and that is what mattered.  She remembered this soup and was able to recreate it for her family.

4 Tbsp butter                                       1 cup light cream
2 medium yellow onions, sliced             2 lbs potatoes peeled and sliced
3 cups milk                                          1/4 cup fresh chives, chopped                                       
5 1/2 cups chicken stock                      1/ 2 tsp celery seeds
1/4 tsp fresh thyme, chopped               
 Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
        Roux:
             2 Tbsp butter
             2 Tbsp all purpose flour
       Garnishes:
              1/2 cup chopped fresh chives
              6 slices bacon, crisply fried and chopped

Heat a stockpot, add butter and onion and cook gently.  Do not let the onion brown.  Add the peeled and sliced potatoes, milk and stock.  Add herbs.  Cover and cook gently for about an hour.
Prepare a roux: Melt the butter in a small saucepan and whisk in the flour.  Let the flour and butter mixture bubble for about 2 minutes on medium/low, stirring constantly.  Thicken the soup with the roux, whisking carefully to avoid lumps.  Cook for 5 to 10 minutes and then puree the soup in a food processor or blender.  Add the cream and gently reheat, but do not boil.  Season with salt and pepper.  Serve with chopped fresh chives and the crisply fried bacon as garnishes.  


Irish Boiled Dinner
My grandmother said that in Ireland, they never eat corned beef, they ate mostly lamb and pork. She said that the first time she had beef brisket was when she immigrated to Boston. She would either make this boiled dinner if she was having the potato onion soup, or an Irish Lamb Stew if she was not making the soup.


1  3 1//2 lb fresh beef brisket                                     2 cups water (or just enough to cover)
2 12 ounce bottles lager beer                                     2 bay leaves
10 black peppercorns                                                1/2 cup chopped parsley
2 tsp salt                                                                   2 Tbsp butter
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced                               2 cups rinsed and chopped leeks (white parts only)
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced                             3/4 lb large carrots, cut into large pieces
3/4 lb small red potatoes                                            1 lb turnips, peeled and quartered
2 lbs green cabbage, cut into sixths (secure with toothpicks)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place an 8-10 qt stove-top covered casserole on the burner and add the beef, beer, water, bay leaves, peppercorns, parsley and salt.  Heat a frying pan and add the butter.  Saute the garlic, leeks and yellow onion for a few minutes and add to the casserole.  Cover the pot and simmer gently for 3 1/2 hours or until the meat is very tender (about 1 hour per lb of brisket).  In the last 25 minutes of cooking, add the carrots and red potatoes.  In the last 15 minutes of cooking, add the turnips, cabbage, salt and pepper.  (Remove the toothpicks before serving.)


Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Grandma Young's Sugar Cookies





An aroma, identified in our brain's limbic system, can trigger an emotional memory, but it takes hard work in the kitchen to put the right ingredients together in the right proportions to produce the ancestral potato salad, pasta sauce or cookies. Family recipes often originate with a matriarch who isn't around to reveal the kitchen tricks learned from the previous generation. As a result, many of us modern cooks must start from scratch.

The holidays always trigger emotional memories for me, especially when my brain is stimulated by an aroma. This year it was a trip into Yankee Candle that did it for me. Their "Christmas Cookie" candle permeated the store, and I was hit by a wave of nostalgia.  The memories of my Grandma Young's sugar cookies fueled my desire to recreate her recipe for my family and friends.
 

 My Grandma Young was a marvelous intuitive cook. She could feed a crowd with one chicken and some vegetables out of her garden. She passed away at 104, but the whole family and many friends will always remember her wonderful food and hospitality.  They will especially remember the plate of sugar cookies that she lovingly presented to them when they sat down in her living room.

I loved that memory so much that I didn't want to let it go. So, I've been a kitchen detective, working for a month or so, trying to recreate her recipe.   I think I may have nailed it!

Grandma Young's Sugar Cookies
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon light corn syrup
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1 cup powdered sugar
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup canola oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Sift together flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt.
2. Combine butter, powdered sugar and 1 cup granulated sugar in a large bowl. Beat with an electric mixer.
Add oil, eggs and vanilla, corn syrup, mixing to combine. Gradually add flour mixture. Chill dough 3 to 4 hours until firm.
3. Preheat oven to 350F.
4. Shape dough into walnut-size balls and roll in remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Place cookies on an ungreased baking sheet. Dip the bottom of a glass in granulated sugar and press gently onto each ball. (Do not flatten)
5. Bake 12 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove cookies from pan after about 4 minutes and let cool on a layer of newspaper covered with wax paper, or brown paper grocery bags cut open and laid flat. 

Makes 3 dozen

Sunday, January 26, 2014

"The Superbowl is Americana at it's most kitsch, and fun." - Sting

Only in the South is game day more celebrated than any other event, but Super Bowl Sunday, a de facto American national holiday…it's only football’s Biggest Day of the year in the entire country! Flatscreen TV's, brilliant commercials, passionate fans, bigger than life half-time shows, extravagant food.... whats not to love? My favorite part...preparing the food. I like football food to be bold and aggressive, like the game, full of flavor, color and texture, but I don't want people to walk away feeling like a football. This year, I am composing  a menu based on team colors from the Denver Broncos and Seattle Seahawks.

For the raw foodie, carrots, green onions, celery, green pepper, yellow pepper, red pepper, and edamame with spinach/dill dip


An old standby, potato skins with chili, guacamole and salsa. 


You can't watch the  Superbowl without wings. (Of course they have to be orange glazed) 


You've just gotta have dip, queso (with blue corn chips)



Nothing says football like these stuffed gridiron sandwiches. 



By now, one needs something cool and fresh.  Melon, prosciutto bites. 


And fruit kabobs with yogurt dip.



Sweet endings.

Cake pops,


and Macaroons.

 
How about washing it all down with these colorful libations?


or these......






The best part......

The post game nap!